At first I thought it was a joke, it seemed so implausible. When I found out it was real, I had a reaction that I thought everyone would share, but seems now that no one did: I was very, very hurt. To me the act seemed so full of aggression toward an object that, as best I can say it, just did not deserve it. The moon has inspired poetry, religions and children’s stories. It pulls the tides, lights the night and has guided ships. We see faces in it, we believe it’s made of cheese. Now, without warning or consensus or even clear purpose, we hurtle shuttles at it. And it doesn’t even belong to us. By “us” I mean Americans—I feel that there should have been some global forum of some sort before we could take a move like that. But, really, it doesn’t belong to the Earth or any of its inhabitants either. Then again, part of the reason why I feel so hurt by this is probably because I do feel like a part of me owns it—I doubt I would have been moved at all had the same news come out about Mars or Jupiter. I really don’t know what it is.
I thought about a lot of this at 4 in the morning, Nablusi time when I laid on my back on the patio, jet lag keeping me wide awake (even now as I write this at 435am). Today is my second day in Nablus. I arrived yesterday around 130pm in Tel Aviv. So far 4am has been my favorite time of the day, because that is when they make the predawn call to prayer. Nablus is a beautiful city at night, all lights undulating on rocky hills. I cannot tell if it is these hills that causes that eerie echo when the prayer is sung, or if it is the effect of different loudspeakers set up throughout the city, each one a bit delayed. Apart from the call and the roosters and a few lone cars, Nablus is very quiet at night.
Luckily the apartment at TYO’s building has an enormous patio with spectacular views of the city. Our living room has floor to ceiling glass looking out on that view. We six girls on the sixth floor have lovely accommodations, each with our own room and bathroom. The kitchen is well stocked, complete with refrigerator and oven. I have yet to explore the rest of this large building, but what I have seen so far is gorgeous.
Nablus itself is an interesting city. What struck me the most as we drove through the West Bank was the absence of women. While the gamut of males, from young boys to old men, wander the streets late into the night, I could only find a few women walking about, and always walking purposefully as if from point A to point B. When three of us headed down to a juice bar tonight we, being obvious foreigners,invited a few “hello how are you’s”, but otherwise were undisturbed. (Understand that if we were Palestinian or Arab, speaking to us would have been totally inappropriate.)
I’m dying to ride a bike around here to get to know the city, but bike riding may be off-limits to me unfortunately. One other staff member has been looking for a walking partner and I will be happy to join her. There are these long, brutal-looking staircases climbing up the sides of the mountains that I want to conquer. If you know me at all, you know the thrill I get from climbing atop things and usually swinging my legs over the ledge.
Tomorrow we will go to Ramallah and tomorrow night we will see a film. Sunday Nachel (the other new intern) and I begin our “power orientation” which I am very much looking forward to. Sunday also I’ll begin moving into the bigger room with its own bathroom; I hope to pick up some items soon to decorate with, seeing as this will be my home for awhile. I have my worries about such a long stay, but at 4am I absolutely love it here.